Note: The preferred method of assembly requires the use of cyanoacrylate (CA) glue and an accelerant. A thick construction adhesive or 2-part epoxy may be utilized in conjunction with clamp-up and sufficient cure times. Additionally, the preferred filament material is PETG. PLA may be used in lieu of PETG, but only if the assembled speaker stays indoors and away from direct sunlight.
Suggested number of wall loops and infill percentages are all minimums. All parts should have four (4) top and bottom layers with concentric infill.
Note: All our parts are designed to print without support! Orient parts on the build plate with this in mind. It will be obvious what side is up. Accent rings print "face down" so as to achieve the best surface finish.
Don't have everything you need listed above?
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Follow our 10 Step Guide below to assemble your FDMGeo Loudspeakers with your Print-It-Yourself Kit.
Use soldering iron set to regular high temperature to press and melt inserts into front baffle and tapered end of crossover stand-offs. Threaded inserts should sit flush or sub-flush to the mounting surface. Take care to press inserts as perpendicularly to the mounting surface as possible. Straight up and down.
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Tightly screw on binding posts through back wall of the cabinet with flange facing away from the plugs.
Tip: Use the socket without handle on the inside with an Allen key on the outside to secure the binding post. "Good-n-tight" with your fingers and Allen key will also suffice.
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Tighten binding post until the clear plastic and color ring-washer bank against the rear outside wall of the cabinet. The clear plastic should sit right against the surface, without a gap.
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Attach four (4) crossover stand-offs to the bottom of the PCB board via four (4) screws. Ensure that stand-offs are a little tighter than “finger-tight”. Strip ¼” (6 mm) of speaker wire from all ends of pre-cut lengths. Attach and crimp the small blue female plugs to one of the two long cables, and the other two cables attach and crimp the larger female plugs. Heat shrink and trim off excess from larger female terminal plugs.
See wiring diagram to main board for other stripped end insertion to screw terminals. The short cable with pink female plugs goes to the "-IN+" terminal, the long cable with the blue plugs goes to the "-HF+" terminal, and the long cable with the pink plugs goes to the "-LF+" terminal.
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Attach four (4) soft pads to the underside of the speaker cabinet. See circular indentations.
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Bundle up wire on top of crossover. With cabinet standing upright, apply a liberal amount of adhesive in the center of four (4) circular indentations located inside bottom of the cabinet. Press and hold crossover stand-offs in position. Hold firmly until the adhesive hardens or use additional accelerant. Connect positive and negative female plugs to interior binding post male terminals, making sure to align polarity (positive-to-positive, negative-to-negative)
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Add 1.8 oz of poly-fil stuffing to the cabinet, taking care to fill all voids around internal bracing. There is no need to stuff the port. Tuck woofer and tweeter wires down into cabinet in preparation for front baffle gluing.
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With the partially assembled cabinet facing upward (add a towel underneath to relieve pressure on the binding posts and prop up), apply a generous bead of glue to the inner lip of the cabinet as shown. Then, with the front baffle in hand, apply accelerant to the backside groove and place firmly and quickly into position over lip of the main cabinet.
Alternatively, for slower curing glues, you can flip the assembly on its face (after the front baffle and cabinet come together) and apply pressure/weight on the rear of the baffle while the adhesive cures. This is the most stable and least cumbersome way to assemble the FDMGeo cabinet.
Caution: Some CA accelerants will yellow white PETG or PLA. Be sure to mask with blue painter's tape anything that you don't want to see as yellow.
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Once the adhesive has properly hardened between the front baffle and the main cabinet, connect positive and negative leads of tweeter wire to tweeter and press tweeter firmly into small opening. The fit should be snug, not loose.
Note: Make sure that the metallic plugs do not make contact with the rear metallic body of the tweeter. Slightly bend them away to create clearance before pressing into the baffle opening.
Connect positive and negative leads to woofer and drop woofer into position, lining up flange holes with underlying threaded inserts. Using provided four (4) screws, fasten woofer into position. Proceed to tighten in a star pattern. Screws should be a little tighter than “finger tight.”
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Start by gently pushing in the accent ring into the lip, with the fastener head divots lined up to the woofer mounting screws. It helps to cup the ring a bit to clear the lip. Once the ring seats around half of the lip, carefully push the rest of the ring into the lip, working around until it snaps into place.
And Bob's you're uncle...
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Wait, I thought that this was a 10 Step guide?
Turns out that these go to 11 😎
Enjoy and please feel free to contact us if you have any questions, we're here to help ensure you have a beautiful listening experience.